The Russian River is approximately 110 miles in length with it’s headwaters North of Ukiah, CA. The river runs Southward to Forestville where it runs West and drains into the Pacific Ocean near Jenner. It is home to endangered and threatened runs of Chinook & Coho Salmon and Steelhead. This watershed spans almost 1600 square miles with dams at Lake Mendcino (Ukiah) and Lake Sonoma (Healdsburg). The mouth of the river is approximately 60 miles North of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. This valley is rich with history and influence.
HISTORY
It was known among the Southern Pomo as the “Ashokawna” or “Water to the East”. The rivers name originates back from Ivan Aleksandrovich Kuskov of the Russian American Company who explored the river in the early 19th century and set up the Fort Ross colony. After the Russian American Company left the Fort Ross area, the industry in the area turned to logging, with mills and railroad infrastructure, transporting redwood the San Francisco area for the use of constructing building and ships.
By the 1830’s, settlers had set out to establish agricultural regions. Wine grapes were planted near Fort Ross on the Sonoma Coast, followed by vineyards established throughout all of Sonoma County. Many settlers from wine-producing European countries migrated and developed the foundation for what has now become a world-class viticulture region in the Russian River Valley. The river now provides groundwater recharge and a water supply for a variety of agriculture. The flood plain encompasses many vineyards and was approved as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1983 and expanded in 2006. It produces many award winning varietals including Chardonnay & Pinot noir wines. Today the Russian River is also a popular destination for local residents and tourists providing recreational opportunities to fish, swim, hike, canoe-kayak, bird watch or general relaxation.
The valley is home to Armstrong Redwoods State Park. This majestic park is home to the ancient coast redwood, which is the tallest living thing on our planet. These magnificent trees live to be 500 to 1000 years old, stand 200-250 feet tall, and grow to 12-16 feet in diameter. The Armstrong reserve includes a self-guided nature trails, picnic facilities, an amphitheater and visitor center. The area is a reminder of primeval redwood forest that encompassed much of the valley before logging began during the 19th century.
HABITAT
Historically, the Russian River was a big draw to the Native American settlers because of it’s abundance of fish and basket making material. Chinook, coho, & steelhead are born in this river and inhabit the area before migrating out into the ocean for several years. The fish then return to the upper portions of the Russian River as adults to spawn in the tributaries. Russian River chinook generally come back to this river as 2-4 year old’s, entering the system between August & January. It was once a a premiere destination for recreational fishing opportunity. However, it has faced many issues with poor habitat and fish passage obstruction which have greatly effected the numbers of returning fish to their spawning grounds.
IMPACT
There has been tremendous impact to this once robust salmon fishery. Today, salmon are becoming at risk of extinction and the numbers support less than 1000 for the entire watershed. The coho salmon are nearly extinct in the river. Dams and decline in habitat are the culprit for the declining return of salmon to the valley. The lack of returning chinook, coho and steelhead has manifested into a proposal for federal listing as a endangered species. There has also been a drastic decline over the years in the striped bass and American shad populations.
One of the many challenges in the Russian River Valley is the competition and heavy demand for use of it’s water. Agriculture needs the water, but when they extract it from the nearby streams to water their crops, these streams dry up, stranding and killing fish and damaging their habitat.
Additionally, construction of two large dams have significantly affected fish passage & the ability for these migratory fish to get up river and spawn and has also trapped sediment in the river valley. The Coyote Valley dam was built in 1959 and the Warm Springs dam built in 1982. There are a few smaller damns in the region that also block upstream salmon migration.
Achieving the needs of both farming and preservation of fish habitat is possible, but requires good science and innovative management.
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